As awards season reaches its zenith with the Baftas and Oscars just around the corner, the red carpet has become a stage for sartorial storytelling. Amid the glitz and glamour, Nicole Kidman’s appearance at the Critics Choice Awards offered a refreshing departure from the expected parade of gowns. Dressed in a beige Yves Saint Laurent suit, Kidman channelled the spirit of Annie Hall, proving that suiting can be as feminine and chic as any couture creation. Her slightly oversized ensemble, with its nipped-in waist, shoulder pads, and wide-leg trousers, was styled to perfection—rolled-up sleeves, a striped shirt, and a black-and-white tie added a touch of androgynous flair, while gold jewellery by Roberto Coin provided a hint of opulence. This look wasn’t just fashion; it was a statement, echoing her role in Babygirl as a powerful CEO navigating complex dynamics. Kidman’s suit was a masterclass in method dressing, blending character and couture.
The Suit as a Symbol of Power and Subversion
Kidman’s choice of a suit is part of a broader trend championed by designers like Victoria Beckham and Tom Ford, who are redefining womenswear with their sapiosexual approach to tailoring. At Victoria Beckham’s show, models strutted down the runway with jackets draped over their fronts, as if caught mid-fitting in front of a mirror. Tom Ford, ever the provocateur, leaned into pure sex appeal with Bianca Jagger-inspired three-piece suits, cut with wide legs and lapels, exuding a 1970s insouciance. These designs underscore the enduring allure of the suit as a symbol of power and rebellion.
Historically, the suit has been a vehicle for challenging societal norms. Marlene Dietrich scandalized 1930s society by wearing men’s suits, even risking arrest in Paris. Yves Saint Laurent’s introduction of Le Smoking in 1966 was a watershed moment, though it initially met with shock and outrage. Françoise Hardy was heckled for wearing her Le Smoking suit to the Paris Opera, and some establishments barred women in suits altogether. Yet, as Saint Laurent famously said, “A woman wearing a suit is anything but masculine. A strict, clean cut accentuates her femininity, her seductiveness, her ambiguity.”
The Modern Suit: A Celebration of Femininity and Individuality
Today, the suit continues to captivate because of its inherent subversiveness. Sarah Corbett-Winder, stylist and founder of Kipper Club, notes, “We’re wearing something meant for a man. It’s exciting and it feels wrong, thus it feels right!” This tension between masculine and feminine is what makes the suit so compelling. Designers like Alex Eagle and Daisy Knatchbull are reimagining the suit for the modern woman, emphasizing relaxed fits and silhouettes that celebrate the female form.
“Our suits have a looser, cooler fit than your traditional male suit,” explains Eagle, who draws inspiration from the minimalist designs of the 1990s. Knatchbull adds, “A silhouette that is strong but encompassing of modern femininity is key. One that highlights the beautiful soft shape of a woman’s body through the curvature of the waist.”
Styling the Suit: From Day to Night
The versatility of the suit lies not just in its cut but in how it’s styled. Kidman’s Annie Hall-inspired shirt and tie combo isn’t for everyone, but there are countless ways to personalize the look. Knatchbull suggests pairing a suit with elevated basics like a silk camisole, white T-shirt, or bodysuit to let the tailoring shine. Eagle recommends adding a ribbed vest, lace top, or unbuttoned shirt to reveal a hint of décolletage. For a three-piece suit, she advocates for wearing nothing under the waistcoat—a bold, Bianca Jagger-esque move.
Accessories and beauty choices further elevate the suit. Eagle loves pairing hers with gold jewelry and red lipstick, while Knatchbull champions flat shoes for a modern, comfortable twist. “I personally am a big fan of a flat shoe—I love to wear a three-piece suit with trainers,” she says. Lauren Hutton and Jane Birkin have long proven that flats can be just as chic as heels, offering a relaxed yet polished alternative.
Naomi Watts recently demonstrated the suit’s versatility at the Producers Guild Awards, wearing a black pinstripe Celine suit with a pussy bow at the collar. Paired with a bold red lip and pearl earrings, she struck the perfect balance between masculine tailoring and feminine elegance.
Conclusion: The Suit as a Red-Carpet Revolution
Nicole Kidman’s Critics Choice Awards look is a reminder that the suit is more than just clothing—it’s a statement of empowerment, individuality, and timeless style. From Dietrich to Saint Laurent, from Bianca Jagger to Kidman, the suit has been a canvas for challenging norms and redefining femininity. As awards season continues, the suit stands as a testament to the enduring power of tailoring, offering a sartorial reprieve from the expected and a celebration of the modern woman’s multifaceted identity. Whether styled with heels or flats, ties or camisoles, the suit remains a red-carpet revolution, proving that true glamour lies in confidence and self-expression.