Why the kaftan for men isn’t as outrageous as you might think
Skip the skimpy swimwear; I’ve long opted for the breezy elegance of a kaftan during the hotter months, much like many avant-garde style aficionados before me. Though it may seem unconventional, kaftans boast a venerable legacy in masculine fashion, appearing quite natural beside the azure waves of Patmos or the rosy dusk of Puglia.
Historically adorned by Ottoman emperors and Moroccan monarchs, kaftans are often overlooked as we near summer’s twilight. They blend chic design with sheer comfort and are universally flattering, regardless of one’s body type or age—it’s all in how you style them.
My introduction to kaftans happened in Tangier when I was a teenager, decades ago. I initially bargained for one at a bustling souk just for kicks. Yet, as the temperature climbed and my cumbersome jeans and stifling polo became unbearable, the kaftan’s airy, effortless charm quickly became apparent. It was so comfortable that I ended up wearing it daily for the remainder of our vacation, to my family’s amusement.
In sweltering conditions, kaftans offer unrestricted movement and excellent ventilation, making them ideal for ‘dad bods’ or anyone sporting a bit of extra around the middle. At home, I prefer the ultra-light cotton kaftans from Birkenstock’s Tekla collection. Their long-sleeved, roomy design serves as a fantastic alternative to traditional sleepwear.
Men’s fashion has seen several notable figures embrace kaftans during their leisure time. This year, I drew inspiration from Rudolph Nureyev, who, together with the esteemed director Franco Zeffirelli, popularized kaftans along the Amalfi Coast. After Nureyev purchased the enchanting Li Galli islands opposite Zeffirelli’s Villa Treville in Positano, they could be spotted on the beach in matching kaftans, using their towels as makeshift turbans.
Yves Saint Laurent remains the epitome of kaftan elegance for men. His first encounter with the allure of Marrakech in the 1970s influenced much of his iconic work. The vibrant city offered a stark contrast to his constrained life in Paris, fostering his transformation with its vibrant nightlife and his embrace of bohemian attire, as seen in poignant photographs from that period.
As Ben Cobb, the editor, extols, “Yves was never more at ease than in Marrakech, clad in a white kaftan. He understood the garment’s inherent simplicity and how it empowers the wearer.” For those curious, Marrakech’s markets are bursting with exquisite kaftans that pair beautifully with trousers for a laid-back cocktail on the terraces of this mystical city.
This summer in Ischia, a stone’s throw from Li Galli, I chose a light V-neck kaftan from Marrakshi Life. I opted for a subtle stripe rather than a bold one, to avoid resembling a sailor or deck chair. A plain, airy linen or cotton kaftan in white or cream is also a superb choice, coupled with leather sandals or a braided belt—it’s a timeless, mythic look for the Aegean.
Kaftans prove just as suitable for balmy summer evenings. Nureyev often wore silk ikat or brocade kaftans, sometimes embroidered, for cocktail hours. While it may seem bold, a short silk kaftan paired with tuxedo pants and polished shoes can be strikingly stylish; for shopping, The Turkmen Gallery and Joss Graham Gallery in London are my go-to’s, with the former also offering an excellent online selection.
The next wave of Marrakech’s bohemian men are also adopting kaftan fashion. Creative consultant Carmen Haid notes her teenage sons have adopted a casual, free-spirited kaftan style each summer from a young age. They wear theirs with sneakers, possibly influenced by celebrities like Jared Leto, Harry Styles, and Lenny Kravitz, who have been seen in distinctive kaftans.
Fausto Puglisi, the creative mind at Roberto Cavalli, is another admirer of kaftans’ relaxed charm. “Life is simply better in a kaftan,” he says. “Whether made from linen or decorated with prints or embroidery, they’re always vibrant and ideal for vacation.” They also offer the perfect freedom for dancing at a beachside bar as the evening warms.
Navigating kaftan fashion does come with some considerations. For those tall and lean, a longer kaftan with a Nehru collar presents a refined, everyday style. Opt for one that reaches mid-calf and pair it with slender linen pants.
For the shorter gentleman, a knee-length kaftan is preferable, or consider following Stephen Doig, Men’s Style Editor at The Telegraph, who tucks the front of his kaftan into shorts or trousers, letting the back flow freely. This method prevents the kaftan from overwhelming your frame, a vital tip unless paired with swimwear, where shorts are essential to manage breezy moments in the Cyclades. Athletically built? A kaftan can enhance your physique, particularly with a deep V-neck. If still hesitant, a kaftan-style shirt with a loose, long cut and an open grandad collar might just be the perfect compromise for staying cool.
