The latest trend captivating designers and the A-list is far from conventional—yet dismissing it outright would be a sartorial misstep. For fashion connoisseurs, owning a piece from Phoebe Philo’s eponymous label is the ultimate status symbol. However, one standout from her upcoming “C” collection—a sleek black maxi skirt—challenges even the boldest tastemakers. At first glance, the design appears understated, even minimalist; but a rear view reveals its audacious twist: it’s entirely backless.
Styled with an oversized blazer and vertiginous heels in the campaign, the skirt makes a defiant statement—one that blurs the line between high fashion and high risk. While hardly boardroom-appropriate (even in the most avant-garde offices), Philo’s creation is a deliberate provocation, a hallmark of her disruptive design ethos. Given her affluent clientele, the piece will likely command a four-figure price tag—reserved for those whose lifestyles (and chauffeurs) accommodate such daring silhouettes.
Why This Trend Matters
Before dismissing the backless skirt as unwearable, consider Philo’s track record as a trend forecaster. As Celine’s former creative director, she catapulted white sneakers into high fashion with her iconic Adidas Stan Smiths moment in 2011. Her 2023 debut collection—featuring the viral £3,200 “Mum” necklace—sold out instantly, proving her Midas touch in shaping contemporary aesthetics.
And she’s not alone in exploring risqué rearviews. Diesel, DSquared2, and Hodakova sent ultra-low-rise trousers down the runway, echoing Alexander McQueen’s infamous “bumster” pants from 1993. Meanwhile, Valentino, Givenchy, and Chloé embraced sheer fabrics that flirted with exposure, reinforcing the trend’s staying power.
Celebrities have followed suit: Zoë Kravitz stunned at the Vanity Fair Oscars after-party in a Saint Laurent satin gown with a plunging backline that left little to the imagination. The message is clear—strategic skin-baring is making a bold return.
How to Wear It IRL
But is this trend truly wearable? According to stylist Alex Longmore, the key lies in reinterpretation. “Designers create drama to spark conversation—not necessarily to be taken literally,” she explains. “This look can be adapted for real life with clever layering.”
Her suggestions?
- Double up: Layer the backless skirt over a slip skirt or Philo’s frontless counterpart for an artful, textured effect.
- Asymmetric pairings: Try it with wide-leg trousers or a long kimono shirt to balance exposure with sophistication.
- Sheer sophistication: For a subtler take, pair a semi-sheer skirt (like The Frankie Shop’s “Peri” style) with a tonal midi layered beneath—elevating the look with a whisper of skin.
The high street has already embraced the trend with wearable iterations: COS’s draped trousers offer a minimalist approach, while Manière De Voir’s wrap styles inject drama into workwear.
The Takeaway
While Philo’s backless skirt may not be practical (or accessible) for most, its influence is undeniable. As Longmore notes, “A hint of a trend refreshes your wardrobe without overpowering it. The goal is to command attention—not let the outfit wear you.”
In an era where fashion oscillates between restraint and rebellion, this trend reminds us: the most memorable style statements are those that balance audacity with intention. Whether you embrace it literally or through inspired layering, one thing is certain—the backless skirt is more than a fleeting shock tactic. It’s a masterclass in fearless dressing.
